And some excess. (MALAYSIAN BUTTER SHRIMP)

I have never been to Malaysia. But as the five senses can help recall a strong memory, they can also conjure a fantasy. That is why this dish and all of its toasty coconut, hint of sweet spicy-ness and the way texture of the shrimp pops in your mouth, makes me feel like I am on a beach in deepest Malaysia… eating this creation from a piece of foil with my buttery fingers, leaving a pile of shrimp shells at my feet. Can you hear the waves lapping?

In reality, midwinter Brooklyn, UPS truck grumbling by, this dish is plain tasty. It entails a two-step cooking process that is maybe a little decadent but I think we deserve it. First, shell-on shrimp is fried in oil. This gives the shrimp a bright color and firm bite without drying it out. After making Butter Shrimp several times with students, we realized that for maximum flavor potential, it is nice to then peel the fried shrimp so it gets really doused in the butter sauce that forms in the final steps. And anyway most people prefer not to peel-and-eat, they just want to hurry up and eat. Do what you wish. In keeping with my Malaysian daydream, the shell stays on, but never mind.

MALAYSIAN BUTTER SHRIMP

(serves 2-4)

1 lb. jumbo/large shrimp, heads removed
2 cups canola oil, for deep frying
3 tablespoons butter
3-4 small red chilis, chopped
2 scallions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine or sherry
1/2 cup grated coconut, toasted

• Prep the shrimp by making a slit down the back to de-vein. Pat dry.
• Heat the canola oil in a skillet with high sides or wok. To test that the oil is hot enough, drop a tiny piece of butter into it. If the butter bubbles and sizzles, it’s ready to use.
• Deep fry the prawns in the oil, do not crowd the pan, until pink and crisp, about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
• When cool enough to handle remove shells from shrimp, leaving just the tails, if desired.
• In a clean skillet, melt the butter. Add chilis, scallions, garlic, salt and fry for 2 minutes or until fragrant.
• Add shrimp to the skillet with sugar, soy sauce, wine, and coconut. Cook over high heat for 1-2 minutes until heated through, stirring constantly. Serve immediately.

Food as big as Texas. (AUSTIN)

During a recent quick and spontaneous trip to Austin, Texas, we managed to amp up to a 4 meal a day regiment. The time we had there was scarce, our mission serious. Here are some of the biggest things we fit in:

Sam’s BBQ. 2000 E 12th St (Poquito Street) Austin, TX

Straight from the airport, we are welcomed by Brian the proud proprietor, a mac-and-cheese rectangular-table discussion and this plate of ribs, sausage and brisket (hiding underneath). Chef makes all the desserts to… in fact Brian is too formal. Call him Sweetie.

Polvos. 2004 South 1st Street Austin, TX

A jovial Austin staple, Polvos is ready for you at brunch with giant bloody marys and music on full blast for a total sensory overload in the best way possible. I sat next to this burrito (above), but ordered an enchilada (below). I wanted to learn what is the hype about the unassuming Tex Mex enchilada. It was damn fine, but fonder still is the memory of the amazing salsa bar with escabeche pickles.

Casino El Camino. 517 East 6th Street Austin, TX

Stylistically it reminded me of New Orleans. Casino El Camino serves big, big burgers and foot long hot dogs covered in all kinds of cheese, chili, bacon, hot peppers, etc. in fantastically raunchy combos. It was a perfect way to end the debauching weekend. After all the sunny friendliness, it’s kinda nice to pig out in a dark cave. I think they make some kind of chicken sandwich or something too.

Go.

High lights. (FOOD ABROAD)

After embarking on a trip to Europe, recounting stories of all the good friends, good news and good times will take too damn long. Instead, here are a handful of delicious highlights (in pictures).

PARIS:

A villainous cheese plate:

The cheese that looks like a flower is some incredible stuff called tête de moine. It is cut horizontally with a special apparatus that shaves a thin layer  from the top of the cheese. As it is sliced in a circular direction, the cheese curls around itself. Then it melts in your mouth.

An adventurous charcuterie:

The light pinkish sausage at the top is French andouille… that lovely pattern is created by pig intestines and stomach. A little goes a long way.

BELGIUM:

Beeeeeeeeer!:

I guess I ate some stuff during the days in Belgian, but the beer! The beer is special. In this photo is a golden, delicious Tongerlo. Also among my favorites were the Westmalle beers and the rare and fantastic Wechelse Tripel. Locals say not to drink more than three. Decent advice, I guess.

AMSTERDAM:

Applecake:

Never again will I accept the expression ‘as American as apple pie’. We need to simply give up and let the Dutch have this one. Here is a photo of Dutch apple pie from a cute little eatery called Winkel that specializes in the stuff. This inexplicable pie will have me chasing the dragon until I get to try it again. (Noordermarkt 43)

Sorry France, sorry Belgium:

And here we have the little corner shop where I innocently bought some fries. I thought I would walk around and eat them but they were so so so good, I had to sit down on the nearest bench to believe what was going on in that little paper cone. When I looked up, everyone around me was eating them, all in devout silence. I got spicy mayo as my saus but i heard that peanut sauce is also a popular choice. Later still, I discovered the real people’s choice is a mix of mayo AND peanut sauce. Must immerse in local culture. Must. (Voetboogstraat 31)

DEDICATION.

This guy in New Orleans wasn’t even a professional chef. Just a die hard hobbyist.

Eaters everywhere: the omnivore’s hundred

A very smart blogger started a questionnaire called the Omnivore’s Hundred. It is a smattering of a world of food, specialties from regions far and wide. It was posted several months ago but the list of participants is growing all the time.

So, I got involved. One was supposed to bold all of the yes’s and leave the no’s… it is an interesting list!

The VGT Omnivore’s Hundred:

1. Venison – yes
2. Nettle tea – yes
3. Huevos rancheros – si
4. Steak tartare – oui
5. Crocodile – alligator! but not croc…
6. Black pudding – yes.
7. Cheese fondue – oh hell yes!
8. Carp – hmmm, no.
9. Borscht – yes
10. Baba ghanoush – yes
11. Calamari – yup.
12. Pho – as often as possible
13. PB&J sandwich – yes…no brainer
14. Aloo gobi – yes and yum
15. Hot dog from a street cart – I’m a New Yorker!
16. Epoisse – yes
17. Black truffle – mmmmm. yes
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes – yes. plum, apple
19. Steamed pork buns – oh the dumpling window on Grand Street!
20. Pistachio ice cream – yes.
21. Heirloom tomatoes – yes, thx Diner.
22. Fresh wild berries – yes.
23. Foie gras – oh yeah!
24. Rice and beans – yes
25. Brawn, or head cheese – yes, in Germany
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper – yep.
27. Dulce de leche – yes
28. Oysters – many
29. Baklava – yes
30. Bagna cauda – yes
31. Wasabi peas – yes
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl – no… I have breadbowl-phobia
33. Salted lassi – no…only mango
34. Sauerkraut – yes
35. Root beer float – yes…with whiskey cherries
36. Cognac with a fat cigar – mmm. yes
37. Clotted cream tea – no but I hear great things
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O – yes. I was young once
39. Gumbo – yes! thx Chef Brent Sims
40. Oxtail – yes
41. Curried goat – yes, the East Indian Day Parade has the best!!
42. Whole insects – si. chauplines en Mexico
43. Phaal – no but i’m gonna find it!
44. Goat’s milk – only in the form of cheese, yogurt, or ice cream
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £/$ or more – wholesale or retail!? anyway, yes.
46. Fugu – nope
47. Chicken tikka masala – yes. mmm!
48. Eel – yes
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut – yes
50. Sea urchin – oh yes!
51. Prickly pear – yes
52. Umeboshi – yes, often
53. Abalone – yes! eco-fished and delicious
54. Paneer – yesum!
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal – not lately but yes
56. Spaetzle – at the restaurant we make all the time
57. Dirty gin martini – yes. janiiiiine
58. Beer above % ABV – oh canada!
59. Poutine – called ‘couch potatoes’ in the NYC
60. Carob chips – yes…my mom made us do healthy things
61. S’mores – yes!
62. Sweetbreads – yes.
63. Kaolin – seems it is an ingredient in toothpaste, so i guess so
64. Currywurst – no
65. Durian – maybe…in taiwan. counts as a ‘no’ if i am unsure
66. Frogs’ legs – yes
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake – all of the above
68. Haggis – from a can!! so…no. not authentically.
69. Fried plantain – si.
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette – yes. me no like.
71. Gazpacho – sure
72. Caviar and blini – yes
73. Louche absinthe – yes Hotel Delmano. In style.
74. Gjetost, or brunost – no
75. Roadkill – no
76. Baijiu – no
77. Hostess Fruit Pie – yes. blueberry was my fave
78. Snail – yes
79. Lapsang souchong – yes
80. Bellini – yes
81. Tom yum – yes
82. Eggs Benedict – yes
83. Pocky – yes. regular and ‘for men’ flavor
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant. – ate at Le Bernadin but i think we ordered a la carte
85. Kobe beef – no
86. Hare – yes
87. Goulash – yes
88. Flowers – yes
89. Horse – yes
90. Criollo chocolate – yes
91. Spam – yeah
92. Soft shell crab – yes
93. Rose harissa – wow! with rose…no
94. Catfish – yes
95. Mole poblano – yes, en Mexico tambien. I learned how to make it in a cooking class here.
96. Bagel and lox – again…new yorker!
97. Lobster Thermidor – no, funny someone just asked me how to make it
98. Polenta – yes
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee – yes
100. Snake – yes! in powder form!!