Step 1. Find a gorgeous pork belly like this one. (The butcher rolled and tied it which made for a lovely presentation.)
Step 2. Take a look at this entry on the 3rd Ward blog and follow the recipe which takes you on a journey through seasoning, braising and cooling.
Step 3. Slice and sear the belly and use it in a delicious creation, as we did in our Noodle Bowls.
Step 4. Enjoy!
Until December 1st view ‘Leftovers’ at the Chelsea Market. Or make a pumpkin-themed recipe.
‘Simple pleasure’ surely means different things to different people. It’s a sort of Hallmark-y title for a post, which is not my usual style, but there are reasons the phrase stuck. I have reasons. Simple: nothing more than a knife was needed to create this dish. It took about five minutes total. I used only the tiniest of cutting boards, leading to tiny clean-up. Six ingredients, all ready-to-eat, created a perfect flavor balance, but that is getting into pleasure. Pleasure: flawless local strawberries and a craving for slightly bitter endive that looked great at the supermarket. It was a coincidence that the perfect cheese to go with the salad was in my fridge, capra (goat) cheese infused with honey, and coincidences bring me great pleasure. Magical ingredient crema di balsamico* on top of my favorite arbequina Spanish olive oil….and the peppermill was full (refilling that thing can be so annoying), the opportunity to stop for a minute and share a bitter and sweet salad with my dear friend, all added up to aforementioned sappy phrase. Please refer to title.
ENDIVE SALAD, STRAWBERRIES and CREMA DI BALSAMICO
Serves 2.
2 heads Belgian endive
1 large handful of strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 tablespoons good olive oil
6 turns of the peppermill
2 generous drizzles of crema di balsamico*
1/4 cup (approximately) soft goat cheese with or without a drizzle of honey stirred in
- Peel one layer of outer leaves from endive and discard (they are usually bruised slightly).
- Chop the endive crosswise into one inch pieces and separate the leaves with your fingers. Divide leaves between two plates.
- Top salads with strawberries and drizzle with olive oil. Three turns of the peppermill over each plate, or to taste.
- Decorate with cream di balsamico and drop cheese on top in haphazard chunks.
*Crema di balsamico is a delicious sweet-tart vinegar product which is made by a reduction of balsamic vinegar and Trebbiano grape must. Trebbiano grapes are the variety used in making balsamic vinegar and must refers to the pressed juice of the entire grape; skin, seeds and stems included. The result is a thick smooth liquid that needs no help in enhancing the flavors of cured meats, cheeses, fruit or vegetables. It can be used all alone as a glaze, dressing or garnish…a great secret weapon to have on hand. Available online or, if you’re local where I’m local, at Buon Italia in the Chelsea Market.
These days we see a renewed respect for humanely produced food, animal and vegetable alike. The questions of when, how and where did this come from are no longer smudged lines in a product’s history. And though it may seem like extra work to find out such details, I have full faith that some day soon it will become as commonplace as checking the date on milk. Whole, organic, grass fed, hormone free, non-antibiotic milk, of course.
So sometimes when I want the skinny on what I am putting in the oven, I wind up making fingerprints on the glass cases at Dickson’s Farmstand, located in the Chelsea Market. I started out as a neighbor, working a few doors down from these serious meat men and now we are friends, taking time to discuss dishes, the best cuts for the job as well as the various methods of getting a great product to the table. But this is not special treatment. When the lines queue up at Dickson’s, everyone is regarded as a friend and all of these fine points are regularly discussed with great care.
That is how I ended up with these two lovely top sirloin roasts, I needed a well-priced and flavorful cut of beef for an event I was catering. The beef was to be sliced, sauced (recipe below) and served over a bit of leek veloute, a roasted potato cake by its side. For portioning, I allow at least 1/2 pound per person, especially for a fancier dinner where not every slice is going to be gorgeous and plate-worthy (but definitely perfectly mouth-worthy). Several steps go into cooking a great roast. They are not complicated but should be followed well, decisions are best made in advance so there is no second guessing when time is precious.
It is important to take the meat from the fridge at least one hour before cooking to come to room temp. This helps it cook faster, more evenly and more precisely but don’t sweat it if there isn’t time for that to happen, especially if you have a meat thermometer. That will really keep you from going wrong even if the timing is a little off. It’s the ticket.
Then sear. Do not be timid, get hot, get smoky and brown it up on all sides. After browning I use a spice rub, since the best method for this cut is a ‘dry roast’ and you want to get all the flavor you can onto the meat. I never remember exactly what I use but I am pretty sure it was a mild mixture of garlic powder, mustard, thyme, cumin, ancho powder, salt and pepper. That is my loose outline for a basic rub in addition to whatever is laying around and/or catches my fancy. Maybe a drop of cayenne, a dash of Tony’s? Use your creative license.
From there, the following irreverant method works out great! A simple trick of cooking the roast high and mightily at 500F for 5-6 minutes per pound and then turning the oven off for two hours. Do not open the oven door, don’t even think about it. The beef will be a perfect medium rare when you take it out of the undisturbed oven two hours later. I really liked this style and it yielded buttery, tender pink beef. You can always flash cook it a little more at the end if it’s too rare but you can never un-cook it… so might as well err to the side of less-done.
More traditional methods (for medium rare boneless beef roasts) are quite varied, some cooks favor high temperatures for less time (400F / 10 minutes per pound) and others go for lower temps for longer periods of time (300F / 20-22 minutes per pound). The most important step is to consult an instant read thermometer after the first 45 minutes of cooking and every 20 or so thereafter to get the temperature spot on. There are so many variations to be had, it really is best to use the thermometer in combination with your intuition because who knows how wacky your oven is, how the shape of the meat cooks, the starting temp…etcetera. The following chart from themeatsource.com is very helpful for getting it right, an excerpt from a post dedicated to top sirloin. Dickson’s offers this chart representing a variety of animals.
Below is a cooking chart for top sirloin roast recipe. Remember you should always use an instant-read thermometer to check the doneness of a roast. The internal temperature will rise about 5-10 degrees during resting time, remove the roast 5-10 degrees before desired doneness. themeatsource.com
| Doneness | Description | Meat Thermometer Reading |
| Rare | Red with cold, soft center | 125-130 degrees |
| Medium-Rare | Red with warm, somewhat firm center | 135-140 degrees |
| Medium | Pink and firm throughout | 140-150 degrees |
| Medium-well | Pink line in center, quite firm | 150-155 degrees |
| Well-done | Gray-brown throughout and completely firm | 160-165 degrees |
When cooked to desired doneness (accounting for the 5-10 degrees of carryover cooking), it is mandatory to let the meat rest for about 15 minutes before carving. This allows the juices to be reabsorbed and redistributed into the meat and not be lost with the first cut. Ok! Now you have the earned the right to slice up your materpiece and enjoy. The following recipe is an awesome and easy sauce. Marchand de Vin (Winemerchant’s Sauce) goes exceptionally well almost any grilled or roasted beef, a great acidic kick to cut through the rich flavors of well-raised meat.
SAUCE MARCHAND DE VIN
(adapted from The Cook’s Companion by Stephanie Alexander)
1/2 cup shallots, minced
1 tablespoon sherry or sherry vinegar
1/2 cup red wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
juice of 1 lemon
pan juices from cooked meat (optional)
6 tablespoons of butter, cut into pieces
salt and cracked black pepper
- Place first four ingredients in a pan and reduce liquids until the almost gone, but shallots are still moist.
- Add parsley, lemon juice and meat juices, if using. And stir in butter until just melted.
- Season with salt and pepper.
Well, Chef Josh and I have officially named our project ‘Grill-A-Chef’ and we are officially stationed (indoors, whew!) at the Chelsea Market twice per week. The idea is the same as before, maybe a bit more refined. We give free cooking advice. The great response we’ve been getting has kept the project going strong since the entry which described our trial day at the Union Square Greenmarket just before Thanksgiving. It was out there, freezing our sprouts off, that we were spotted by the Chelsea Market people and invited to dispense advice within the brownie-induced warmth of the CM Concourse. It was great to be on site through the holidays helping people get their roasts right, advising on culinary gifts and brainstorming what to cook for the guest that eats no…(fill in the blank here, we know you all know someone with a restriction condition).
Still now, we have regulars who pre-think their questions and deliver them to our table each week, and lots of people who pass by to tell us the outcome of our advice whether it be recipe results or success with a new tool or technique. Positive feedback, yay! Of course each day also brings plenty of newcomers who seem delighted by the idea of real-live chefs to answer their culinary inquiries. There is no question too basic and, as for those that may be too complicated, we have internet access at close hand. We wouldn’t want to get caught with our toques down, after all.
Some of the basic recipes we have been handing out are available on our little moonlighting side-blog: grillachef.com
Surf on by and leave us a question or comment, we love that stuff. We post RAQ’s (Recently Answered Questions) and some how-to’s because we want to help you all to become better, more masterful cooks. And that is what we aim to do.
